I decided to explore all of Soul Cairn and ended up with 15 Black soul gems (grand) and 25 Grand soul gems (grand). A lot better than Blackreach I must say.
I still prefer Dwarven ruins, none of that tedious running about and forgetting where you are.
It's not so much forgetting where I was, but not knowing where I've been, and where I've yet to explore. It's hard to get a feel for sense of where abouts in Soul Cairn.
I don't think it's that bad to navigate the soul cairn. I always focus on the gap in the wall, Valerica's location and the spires with the souls coming out of them.