I heard that you can go to solstheim without being Dragonborn, but what quests you can and cant do?

This is General Discussion. Your question begs for spoilers.

You can't do the Dragonborn Main Quest, and I think there some Skaal quests that require you be in the middle of the Dragonborn Main Quest.
You can't get the Black Books unless you're doing the MQ (obviously.)

I know you can do the sidequest to gain a new Home, and a few smaller ones around Raven Rock.

I would assume that all other miscellaneous/sidequests can be done by anyone, since I can't remember any of them having a connection to the MQ.

Hmm so even if you dont start the Dragonborn MQ questline, you cant do the Skaal quests even if they dont require the MQ?