200 hours in, and I have yet to find Old Hroldem, a tavern somewhere in the reach. What devilry hides it from me? (no seriously, I cant find it)

Go to a farm near Markarth, and an old man will give you a misc. quest to deliver a letter to his son in Old Hroldan. The quest marker will show you the way. Also, I recommend their bedrooms. Very...relaxing to take a nap there.

Old Hroldan?

It exists Once you find it, make sure to stay a night at the inn.

I must find this myself... looks like I'm going Quest-hunting tonight!

Make sure to rent a room for a good nights rest.

I found it by accident

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I will move this now.

Me too. Odd since I usu Fast Travel and miss a lot of the 'in between' stuff.

If you follow the river south and east of Markath, you should find it on the eastern shore if you pay attention.