200+ hours without compass. I use the map markers and figure my own way.
I also use the floating markers as they only show up when you are really close, this saves you from missing things in front of you and running in circles. You can still get lost.
I don't have a sneak indicator or crosshair. I only have a small dot when I'm crouching.
Thanks to ini tweaks and a small image file with a dot. If I was playing on a console, I would like to see these options on the menus.
My experience is exactly the same as yours, even the number of hours played.
I love playing Skyrim without a comapss. With no compass, I think Skyrim's HUD is the best HUD I've ever experienced in any game. I find that I play 90% of the time with no HUD at all. I see a HUD element mainly when I'm in combat. Then, when it's no longer needed, it disappears. When that compass is removed Skyrim's HUD is pure genius, as far as I'm concerned.