My first test play with the unmodded game lasted like 150 hours. It was boring, and I didn't feel like a Dragonborn because I felt pampered and everything was too easy. I ran straight to traps etc. as they were just a minor annoyance instead of a threat that could kill me. Also all the markers in Compass made me not use my brain making me bored. I stopped playing before i finished the Main Quest or any of the quest lines.
Then I restarted with a lot of tweaks and mods.
Here's pretty much all the things I had to do before I really started to enjoy the game:
1. Field of View is too low
The default Field of View is something like 65 degrees. This is a low value for a PC game that's played with a widescreen display. The field of views are low like this on console games to increase the game's performance.
To increase Field of View put these to Documents/My Games/Skyrim/Skyrim.ini in the right sections:
[General]fdefaultfov=80[Display]fDefaultWorldFOV=80fDefault1stPersonFOV=80
2. The game's interface is horrible
If you haven't already, install http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=3863 to make the interface better. http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=2730 helps there too.
3. The Markers in Compass take excitement out of exploration and combat (Also Sneak Indicator makes sneaking too easy)
Install http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=3222 to get rid off Quest Arrows, Compass Markers, Crosshair, and Sneak Indicator from the HUD. You can remove some of these by editing Documents/My Games/Skyrim/SkyrimPrefs.ini too. I recommend setting HUD opacity to 33% from Skyrim's options. My HUD looks like http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/ActionDragon/Skyrim/HUD.jpg.
4. The game's map screen is horrible
Map tweaks:
http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=4929 - Adds roads to map. I recommend the main roads only version.
http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=1327 - This is a must. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/ActionDragon/Skyrim/Map.jpg.
Add these to Documents/My Games/Skyrim/Skyrim.ini to make the map screen even better.
[MapMenu]fMapWorldYawRange=3600.0000fMapWorldInitialPitch=90.0000fMapWorldMaxHeight=130000.0000fMapWorldMinHeight=5000.0000fMapWorldZoomSpeed=0.0750fMapLookMouseSpeed=3.0000fMapZoomMouseSpeed=15.0000sMapCloudNIF=0
Gameplay tweaks
1. NPCs are annoying and start talking to you every time you pass by.
http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=746 - Reduces the range before NPCs start talking to you.
2. Lockpicking is too easy. You don't need any lockpicking perks at all.
http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=7395 - Makes lockpicking harder and the perks worth getting.
3. Nights and Dungeons are well lit, torches are completely useless.
http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=7654 - I use http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=11318 (version 0.52) and the Realistic Lighting mod comes with it.
4. Smithing is unbalanced
The next patch is going to fix it, but http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=4429 mod does the job well too.
5. You can stop time in the middle of combat and drink an infinite number of instant healing potions.
http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=4429 - This mod includes the ability to remove instant healing effects from potions. Also only one healing potion has an effect at a time.
6. Traps are just a minor annoyance.
http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=8998 - Makes traps more dangerous so you've to watch your step.
More mods I recommend
http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=5626 - Voice controlled shouts etc. This mod made me feel like a Dragonborn. It also improves combat as you don't have to pause to switch between shouts/racial ability. I also like it that you can call your horse. I use version 1.81 as calling your horse doesn't seem to work well with the most recent version.
There's also http://www.gamesas.com/topic/1352100-wiprelz-pise-plutos-improved-skyrim-experience/ mod to improve AI, make sneaking harder etc. but it's still a work in progress so I don't recommend it to everyone. Also some parts of it conflict with the HBE mod.
If you've a high end computer then I suggest installing the official HD textures pack, this http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=607, and this http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/downloads/file.php?id=2674.


