..::THE COMMUNITY TECH THREAD No. 112::.

Post » Mon May 14, 2012 9:15 am

ive got a question concerning moving installed programs and folders containing their files.

will there be any adverse effects to moving folders from my C drive to my D drive. I record video stuff using fraps (which takes up alot of space) and my C drive while other wise very generous considering disc space gets every often to the point where i need to purge files i would rather keep a while longer. my D drive has 5 times as much space and in hindsight is much better suited for storing the fraps media files.
I would assume there would be an option to change the recording/temporary folder in FRAPS somewhere. Just copying and pasting it to the other partition isn't going to change anything if it's using $PATH or absolute links.

Look in the options for something that'll allow you to change the recording/temporary folder.
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lucile davignon
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 3:50 am

So I intend to buy a new monitor soon, and was looking at all the cool new stuff! I saw tons of 3D monitors, and multi-touch screen (old news yeah i know, i still think theyre cool :tongue: )!

But.. I haven't been able to find a Multi-touch screen 3D monitor. Not even an outrageously priced one!

I was wondering if any of you have seen one? I think it'd be amazing.

While on the topic of monitors, if anybody wants to recommend a decent monitor for around $200, that'd be cool. I'm looking for one with a DVI-D port, for my computer, and an HDMI port, for my Xbox 360. But I'm more interested in hearing about 3D touch screens lol.
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saharen beauty
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 7:06 pm

Two possibilities as I see it:

1. You have bad luck with GPUs

2. You have dirty power damaging your GPUs and/or monitors
My conclusion is that it was 3. The motherboard is defective.

I bought an NVIDIA GTX 580 and also received no signal. Then I just put in my old video card from my old computer, Radeon 6600 series, and again received no signal. Finally I just said [censored] it and I'm sending the whole computer back. For the record, never buy anything from ibuypower. They are garbage.

Anyway, now I don't know what to do. I want a nice PC but I can't help but blame myself for everything having gone so wrong, so I don't trust myself to build one. I'm also pessimistic about a prebuilt PC meeting my expectations and having too many unnecessary things included.
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Jhenna lee Lizama
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 3:12 pm

My conclusion is that it was 3. The motherboard is defective.

I bought an NVIDIA GTX 580 and also received no signal. Then I just put in my old video card from my old computer, Radeon 6600 series, and again received no signal. Finally I just said [censored] it and I'm sending the whole computer back. For the record, never buy anything from ibuypower. They are garbage.

Anyway, now I don't know what to do. I want a nice PC but I can't help but blame myself for everything having gone so wrong, so I don't trust myself to build one. I'm also pessimistic about a prebuilt PC meeting my expectations and having too many unnecessary things included.
If you played with legos as a child you can build your own PC :shrug:
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renee Duhamel
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 2:13 pm

If you played with legos as a child you can build your own PC :shrug:
Truely. In my opinion, the 'hardest' part is applying the thermal compound to the processor, and latching the heatsink on. But you can youtube that to see how easy it really is. After that its just a matter of plugging things that fit, into the hardware, then the motherboard. Pretty much, where it fits is where it goes. Even easier than Legos :D (my lego castles always ended up multi-colored, from the random blocks i had from dozens of different sets... Instruction manuals, bah!)
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Naughty not Nice
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 11:30 am

Truely. In my opinion, the 'hardest' part is applying the thermal compound to the processor, and latching the heatsink on. But you can youtube that to see how easy it really is. After that its just a matter of plugging things that fit, into the hardware, then the motherboard. Pretty much, where it fits is where it goes. Even easier than Legos :biggrin: (my lego castles always ended up multi-colored, from the random blocks i had from dozens of different sets... Instruction manuals, bah!)
And if you just use the stock cooler, it's as simple as just putting the heatsink on (usually has thermal paste pre-applied). Unless you're overclocking or have ambient heat issues, the stock cooler is good enough.
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Rob Davidson
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 10:06 am

If you played with legos as a child you can build your own PC :shrug:
It's less a concern about my ability to shove parts into a case and more the concern that those parts wouldn't be compatible once they were all installed correctly. I've just had terrible luck with things like that and I'm sick of it. I've spent too much time dealing with these hassles. I just want a powerful gaming PC.
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Kelvin
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 6:43 pm

And if you just use the stock cooler, it's as simple as just putting the heatsink on (usually has thermal paste pre-applied). Unless you're overclocking or have ambient heat issues, the stock cooler is good enough.
I always use stock coolers. Now that I'm playing with more modern hardware, theres no point in overclocking.
It's less a concern about my ability to shove parts into a case and more the concern that those parts wouldn't be compatible once they were all installed correctly. I've just had terrible luck with things like that and I'm sick of it. I've spent too much time dealing with these hassles. I just want a powerful gaming PC.
Well you can say about how much money you intend to spend, and ask for somebody on here to list some parts. Or you can spend some time to learn about it all, then make a list of the set-ups you intend to build, then double-check with this forum.
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Samantha Mitchell
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 7:10 pm

Well you can say about how much money you intend to spend, and ask for somebody on here to list some parts. Or you can spend some time to learn about it all, then make a list of the set-ups you intend to build, then double-check with this forum.
I did all of that before, got my custom built PC, and it still didn't work. That's my problem.

I intended to have this computer before November of 2011, but I had money issues and a lot of things got in the way. Then, months later when I could finally afford it, I had to wait extra long for it to arrive because of shipping issues and all that jazz. Then it finally gets here and I have to spend a week trying to get a signal from the video card. Then THAT doesn't work and I go out and buy a new video card--and now we're looking at around $2500 spent total--and THAT video card doesn't work either, making me realize there's just something inevitably wrong with the computer. So now I just don't know what to do because I feel like if I try to build my own PC again, I'll just have similar issues and I've wasted so much time and effort already.

Sorry. I'm just frustrated and tired and I needed to rant. I'll figure out what to do.
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Vera Maslar
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 11:49 am

Truely. In my opinion, the 'hardest' part is applying the thermal compound to the processor, and latching the heatsink on. But you can youtube that to see how easy it really is. After that its just a matter of plugging things that fit, into the hardware, then the motherboard. Pretty much, where it fits is where it goes. Even easier than Legos :biggrin: (my lego castles always ended up multi-colored, from the random blocks i had from dozens of different sets... Instruction manuals, bah!)
The hardest part is the troubleshooting in case something goes wrong, otherwise building it is simple.

I did all of that before, got my custom built PC, and it still didn't work. That's my problem.

I intended to have this computer before November of 2011, but I had money issues and a lot of things got in the way. Then, months later when I could finally afford it, I had to wait extra long for it to arrive because of shipping issues and all that jazz. Then it finally gets here and I have to spend a week trying to get a signal from the video card. Then THAT doesn't work and I go out and buy a new video card--and now we're looking at around $2500 spent total--and THAT video card doesn't work either, making me realize there's just something inevitably wrong with the computer. So now I just don't know what to do because I feel like if I try to build my own PC again, I'll just have similar issues and I've wasted so much time and effort already.

Sorry. I'm just frustrated and tired and I needed to rant. I'll figure out what to do.
So the video card hasn't worked since you got the PC? If you ordered it from a company, I'd call them up and get them to fix it or take it back.
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latrina
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 4:22 am

I'm thinking about http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0354589, and http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0364087 combination for a new micro ATX build for a moderately cheap computer (not for gaming). In-store, there's an additional discount off the combo of these two, so they total $230 . Do you guys think that this the decent core of around a $600 build? How do the i5s and i3s compare?

Thanks for the input.
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Yama Pi
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 10:21 am

I'm thinking about http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0354589, and http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0364087 combination for a new micro ATX build for a moderately cheap computer (not for gaming). In-store, there's an additional discount off the combo of these two, so they total $230 . Do you guys think that this the decent core of around a $600 build? How do the i5s and i3s compare?

Thanks for the input.
The i5 is a perfectly good chip, but that is the 2500k, which is an overclocker's chip. Get the standard i5 if it will not be used for gaming. No sense in blowing more money on something you are not going to use.
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Zoe Ratcliffe
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 10:18 am

I am trying to get my laptop, which is on wireless to print to the one printer I have in my house.

I have 2 desktop PCs, one is mine the other is the kids'. Both desktops run XP; the printer is connected to my PC via USB. For a number of years the kids' PC was connected through wireless and it was able to print to the one printer. Eventually I got off my ass and ran a cable over to it so it is now wired and still connects to the printer.

My laptop runs Windows 7, which I am very, very new to, and is obviously on wireless.

Last night I worked the Google machine a bit and found http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-7/share-files-and-printers-between-windows-7-and-xp/, but then the kids pissed me off so I lost interest until this afternoon.

I have changed the laptop Workgroup to the same as the 2 desktops. I have verified the network discovery and file/printer sharing according to the webpage I linked above.

Now the funny business:
  • According to the Network page on the Laptop it could see my router but nothing else.
  • My PC could see the router and nothing else.
  • The kids' PC could see the laptop but nothing else.

At this point I played around with the Set Up Home or Small Office wizard on the 2 XP machines

Now along with the above the 2 XP machines can see each other; my PC does not see the laptop and the laptop doesn't see either desktop so obviously doesn't see the printer either.

Anyone have any ideas how to get these stupid things to get along?
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Siobhan Wallis-McRobert
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 4:57 pm

1. enable file and printer sharing on the xp computer the printer is connected to. Share the Printer http://www.home-network-help.com/share-printer.html

2. Make sure Windows Firewall/your third party firewall isn't blocking file and printer sharing http://www.sophos.com/support/knowledgebase/article/11738.html You may also wish to make sure that windows firewall/your firewall isn't blocking ping: http://www.ucs.cam.ac.uk/docs/faq/windows/m8

2. run ipconfig in the command prompt on the XP computer the printer is connected to. Copy down the ip address of the computer.

3. On the Windows 7 computer, open explorer and enter in \\whatevertheipaddressofthexpcomputeris (example: \\192.168.1.20)

4. Enter the username/password as prompted (no password can make file sharing more tricky, see here for some hints: http://superuser.com/questions/27711/sharing-a-printer-over-lan-without-making-a-guest-account )

5. connect to the printer. Do note that if your windows 7 laptop is 64-bit, printer sharing is much trickier, especially with HP printers. You must load the 64-bit printer in XP (see the above link) or you must trick Windows 7 into connecting by telling Windows 7 to treat the remote printer as a local port.
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Alkira rose Nankivell
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 5:48 am

1. enable file and printer sharing on the xp computer the printer is connected to. Share the Printer http://www.home-network-help.com/share-printer.html

2. Make sure Windows Firewall/your third party firewall isn't blocking file and printer sharing http://www.sophos.com/support/knowledgebase/article/11738.html You may also wish to make sure that windows firewall/your firewall isn't blocking ping: http://www.ucs.cam.ac.uk/docs/faq/windows/m8

2. run ipconfig in the command prompt on the XP computer the printer is connected to. Copy down the ip address of the computer.

3. On the Windows 7 computer, open explorer and enter in \\whatevertheipaddressofthexpcomputeris (example: \\192.168.1.20)

Thanks for the help.

All good to here, I didn't have to change any settings they were all right already.

4. Enter the username/password as prompted (no password can make file sharing more tricky, see here for some hints: http://superuser.com/questions/27711/sharing-a-printer-over-lan-without-making-a-guest-account )

It doesn't ask for a username or password. I haven't had any problems with the XP machines sharing without a password.


5. connect to the printer. Do note that if your windows 7 laptop is 64-bit, printer sharing is much trickier, especially with HP printers. You must load the 64-bit printer in XP (see the above link) or you must trick Windows 7 into connecting by telling Windows 7 to treat the remote printer as a local port.

It can see the printer now but can't connect to it. It get two different messages:

Windows couldn't connect to the printer. Check the printer name and try again. If this is a network printer, make sure that the printer is turned on, and that the printer address is correct.



and

Operation could not be completed (error 0x0000709). Double check the printer name and make sure the printer is connected to the network.



The printer still works from the other XP desktop.
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Dawn Farrell
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 6:42 pm

I just want a powerful gaming PC.

Me too, but i'm a technoob :sad:
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le GraiN
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 5:15 pm



Thanks for the help.

All good to here, I didn't have to change any settings they were all right already.



It doesn't ask for a username or password. I haven't had any problems with the XP machines sharing without a password.




It can see the printer now but can't connect to it. It get two different messages:

Windows couldn't connect to the printer. Check the printer name and try again. If this is a network printer, make sure that the printer is turned on, and that the printer address is correct.



and

Operation could not be completed (error 0x0000709). Double check the printer name and make sure the printer is connected to the network.



The printer still works from the other XP desktop.
Sounds like a driver problem, you'll have to do it the old hack-ish way to fool Windows to allow you to manually install the drivers. The instructions can be found here: http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/itprovistaprinting/thread/006885bb-2a38-4e2b-9822-bf98e6ccc2cb/

It could also be that you don't have the share settings right on the printer (which is why password protected sharing is simpler)
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Ysabelle
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 6:22 am

Sounds like a driver problem, you'll have to do it the old hack-ish way to fool Windows to allow you to manually install the drivers. The instructions can be found here: http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/itprovistaprinting/thread/006885bb-2a38-4e2b-9822-bf98e6ccc2cb/

It could also be that you don't have the share settings right on the printer (which is why password protected sharing is simpler)

Thanks again, I'm off to bed shortyl but i will take another look tomorrow.
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le GraiN
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 10:51 am

Hello everyone, got a quick overclocking question. Just got my i3-530 stable at 4.4 GHz, but I've run into one little issue. My QPI frequency is only at 2.8 GHz (had the multiplier turned down), but increasing it causes major mouse lag. Lower frequencies are just fine, at 2.8 GHz it's intermittent and pretty minor, but at any higher QPI multipliers my mouse is essentially unusable. I'd like to push this a little considering it's barely above stock speed and way below my core speed. If nothing else, I'd like to alleviate the current level of mouse lag by some means other than lowering QPI below the stock speed. Is it possible my USB ports (it's a USB wireless mouse, had the same problem with a different wireless mouse and receiver, I'll test a wired mouse once I can borrow one) are somehow not getting enough power? Any other ideas and advice are welcome.

Here is my system for reference:

i3-530 @ 4.4 GHz
ASRock H55DE3 Motherboard
Integrated Graphics
8GB Ripjaw X DDR3-1600
20GB Seagate HDD
Corsair CX430 V2 PSU

Edit: So, odd thing about OC stability. With my processor at 4.4 GHz, Prime95 seems to run just fine indefinitely, but when I run Folding@Home, the whole system crashes within an hour. Should I be tweaking my OC more to get this stable, or should I just take it to mean I'll have to fold at lower clocks but can bump the clocks for gaming and such?

Edit 2: Any recommendations on a wireless adapter? Can be USB or PCI, just want the best I can get for $30 or less ideally. I'm using a wire all the time here at my dorm, but unfortunately that won't be an option when I'm home for the summer due to the way things are arranged in my house.
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Sarah Kim
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 10:31 am

Possibly a dumb question, but what is the difference between Windows 7 home premium and the OEM version? OEM is $100 cheaper, so whats the downside?
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BRAD MONTGOMERY
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 3:46 am

Possibly a dumb question, but what is the difference between Windows 7 home premium and the OEM version? OEM is $100 cheaper, so whats the downside?
The big difference, other than price, between Retail and OEM is the OEM license only allows the OS to be installed to a single system, and it is forever locked to that hardware. They will allow minor upgrades, but you might have to jump though a few hoops to get it activated a second, or third, time.
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Jessica Raven
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 12:11 pm

The big difference, other than price, between Retail and OEM is the OEM license only allows the OS to be installed to a single system, and it is forever locked to that hardware. They will allow minor upgrades, but you might have to jump though a few hoops to get it activated a second, or third, time.
It's actually pretty simple to transfer the license after a big PC upgrade. I don't think retail is worth the extra price.
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Tiffany Holmes
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 6:39 pm

It's actually pretty simple to transfer the license after a big PC upgrade. I don't think retail is worth the extra price.
The license says you cannot transfer. I was just stating what it says. I have also made many major upgrades using OEM and gotten it reactivated.

This subject has come up before. Just because you can (sometimes) do it doesn't mean it is allowed under the license you bought.
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Emma Louise Adams
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 10:35 am

Thank you.
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Cedric Pearson
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 10:21 am

Can anyone recommend a website and/or store where one can buy laptop screens (in Canada)? My sister fell down the stairs with her laptop and the screen is apparently done.
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Charlotte Buckley
 
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