[Jade Barnes-Mackey]

Pardon my stupidity, but how exactly would I go about completely restoring my laptop to what it was like after I bought it?

Is there a way to delete everything off of my hardrive, except the windows essentials? I have never re-installed windows or anything like this, but it needs to be done on my laptop. It's just all messed up, man. :cold:

[Tai Scott]

It's not very difficult to install Windows, hell, there are even tutorials on youtube. Of course that requires the disc. If you do have the disc, and you have your info backed upvia CD/DVD/Exteranl HDD etc., then you can re-format and re-install windows. Then you can place all your software that you backed up back on your HDD. Works for me.

Forgot one thing, be prepared to re-install you drivers for all of your hardware if it isn't detected by windows..

[Louise]

It's not very difficult to install Windows, hell, there are even tutorials on youtube. Of course that requires the disc. If you do have the disc, and you have your info backed upvia CD/DVD/Exteranl HDD etc., then you can re-format and re-install windows. Then you can place all your software that you backed up back on your HDD. Works for me.

Well I have the discs, is it as simple as throwing the discs in and following what it tells me to do? I have nothing on my hard drive that I want to save, nothing at all, so I don't have to worry about backing up anything do I?

And what exactly is reformatting? Does that just happen when I throw in the discs and stuff? :unsure:

I've never done anything like this before *off to google I go*

[Samantha hulme]

Re-formatting is basically over-writing your Hard drive, which will make everything usleess that you once had in there. So basically, it's not there anymore, and it will be overwritten by new data that you allow, eventually. So yeah, it will be an essentially new drive for windows to play on.

[helen buchan]

Re-formatting is basically over-writing your Hard drive, which will make everything usleess that you once had in there. So basically, it's not there anymore, and it will be overwritten by new data that you allow, eventually. So yeah, it will be an essentially new drive for windows to play on.

Cool, well I suspect I'll be back here if something goes wrong

:)

[Miguel]

Well I have the discs, is it as simple as throwing the discs in and following what it tells me to do? I have nothing on my hard drive that I want to save, nothing at all, so I don't have to worry about backing up anything do I?

And what exactly is reformatting? Does that just happen when I throw in the discs and stuff? :unsure:

I've never done anything like this before *off to google I go*

Set your PC to boot from CD by going into the BIOS (usually it'll tell you what key to press during POST, "Press __ to enter setup." It's usually DEL for PCs I'm on, but it can also be F2 or something of the like) and then find the boot priority option in one of the various menus. Change it to CD, then save and exit. When it pompts you to boot from CD, hit any key. From there it's pretty straightforward, you'll have to format your HDD (wipe it clean) and then install Windows on the new partition. Vista and Windows 7 have a user-friendly GUI, XP has something akin to the BIOS screen.

I ended up ordering thehttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271001&Tpk=HT%20omega%20striker sound card for my PC, it should be here within the hour. Is there anything specific I should know about it? I downloaded the latest drivers and Creative Alchemy. I will disable onboard sound in my BIOS. Anything else I should know?

Sounds like you've got everything covered. I'd boot into Windows, uninstall any onboard audio drivers and then run Driver Sweeper or something before you even plug the Striker in though.

[Jaylene Brower]

Set your PC to boot from CD by going into the BIOS (usually it'll tell you what key to press during POST, "Press __ to enter setup." It's usually DEL for PCs I'm on, but it can also be F2 or something of the like) and then find the boot priority option in one of the various menus. Change it to CD, then save and exit. When it pompts you to boot from CD, hit any key.

Wait sooo... what?

I'm sorry, but I just found this part confusing. Where exactly do I go to tell my PC to boot from CD? Basically I have to tell my computer to boot from the operating systems re-installation CD in order for the reformatting/re installation to take place?

[Adrian Morales]

Wait sooo... what?

I'm sorry, but I just found this part confusing. Where exactly do I go to tell my PC to boot from CD? Basically I have to tell my computer to boot from the operating systems re-installation CD in order for the reformatting/re installation to take place?

In the BIOS you can change the order in which your PC boots (whether it be from the HDD, DVD drive, floppy drive, etc). To enter the BIOS and change that order you have to http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8263/startupscreen.png up (within the first few seconds). Once you're in the BIOS you'll have to http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/4606/p965s1.jpg to find http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/5416/p965s31.jpg or something along those lines. Change that to "CD ROM" or something similar and then save and exit the BIOS.

Upon restarting you'll be prompted to http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/117/bootfromcd.jpg. After that the Windows disc will load up and then follow the on-screen instructions to install Windows.

[Dalton Greynolds]

Just sent my mobo back to Overclockers to be tested at the cost of... Yet more money <_< Next time I'm just buying from a local parts shop - far better service without having to wait bloody months for things to be posted back and forth.

Mate, you're UK yeah? I had a really good time with Ebuyer, and would recommend them 100%! The only thing they got wrong was the delivery (I paid extra for the Saturday delivery service, twice, and twice they failed to deliver it on the day), but a quick phone call and they reimbursed me with the entire delivery cost, plus a ?10 online voucher (as they could see I'd spent the better part of ?1500 on their site).

Sorry to hear about your troubles with Overclockers though

[Kara Payne]

In the BIOS you can change the order in which your PC boots (whether it be from the HDD, DVD drive, floppy drive, etc). To enter the BIOS and change that order you have to http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8263/startupscreen.png up (within the first few seconds). Once you're in the BIOS you'll have to http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/4606/p965s1.jpg to find http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/5416/p965s31.jpg or something along those lines. Change that to "CD ROM" or something similar and then save and exit the BIOS.

Upon restarting you'll be prompted to http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/117/bootfromcd.jpg. After that the Windows disc will load up and then follow the on-screen instructions to install Windows.

Your awesome. :drool:

On a completely un-related note, does this crash report indicate a sound card/codec problem?

All 37 of my Oblivion crashes are reported as being caused by this exact same issue everytime, according to Windows Solutions or whatever that thing is. I really can't understand the gibberish that the report is, any ideas?

Problem Event Name:	APPCRASHApplication Name:	Oblivion.exeApplication Version:	1.2.0.416Application Timestamp:	462392c7Fault Module Name:	Oblivion.exeFault Module Version:	1.2.0.416Fault Module Timestamp:	462392c7Exception Code:	c0000005Exception Offset:	0001e232OS Version:	6.0.6001.2.1.0.768.3Locale ID:	1033Additional Information 1:	2ccdAdditional Information 2:	b7a25245ecd6b36b9d66fa98ae9b5ff2Additional Information 3:	76dfAdditional Information 4:	28d43f286554e99dc5f4c3e1ba865179

Here's another one I just had, and this time I'm playing a completely clean install of Oblivion, with no mods what so ever. Still crashes.

DescriptionA problem caused this program to stop interacting with Windows.Problem signatureProblem Event Name:	AppHangB1Application Name:	Oblivion.exeApplication Version:	1.2.0.416Application Timestamp:	462392c7Hang Signature:	992cHang Type:	2561OS Version:	6.0.6002.2.2.0.768.3Locale ID:	1033Additional Hang Signature 1:	d2880e4ad49f2ddc6030dddb239322d5Additional Hang Signature 2:	3908Additional Hang Signature 3:	0e58bfc1b02724a3765eef69993c1c1eAdditional Hang Signature 4:	992cAdditional Hang Signature 5:	d2880e4ad49f2ddc6030dddb239322d5Additional Hang Signature 6:	3908Additional Hang Signature 7:	0e58bfc1b02724a3765eef69993c1c1eExtra information about the problemBucket ID:	389332000

[Chrissie Pillinger]

Okay, I think I resolved everything, but there's one problem I'm having. I've noticed that some Win32 process or...something crashes about ten or so minutes every time I reboot. It gives me the Microsoft Send/Don't Send thing. Shortly after this happens, I lose sound to all applications, but I still have the sounds associated with errors and the "click" when sifting through folders. I even have the music that plays on shutdown and startup. My Windows View also locks itself into Classic mode.

I went into Sounds and Audio Devices earlier and it listed nothing. It's as if the Audigy 2 didn't exist. After a reboot, though, everything's absolutely fine until that process or whatever crashes. I think I'll write down whatever keeps crashing and look it up, but if anyone has any clue what this could be, I'd appreciate some support.

[Louise Dennis]

Nevermind-figured it out, hadnt configured it in my Striker's options menu.

[Travis]

Okay, I've found out what's crashing. This is what I got just now as I'm posting:

Generic Host Process for Win32 Services has encountered a problem and needs to close.

Now I'll shortly be losing application audio and Windows will switch to Classic view. I have no idea what's going on. Guess some Google searches are in order. Any help from any techies on here would be great, too.

[Brittany Abner]

What would be the best way to pop off my spacebar to clean under it? I have a Logitech G15 and don't want to ruin it to clean it. But the spacebar feels funny when I hit it. Any suggestions for getting just that one single key off?

[:)Colleenn]

I'm looking into building a gaming PC and I need some help with stuff. I'm planning on buying these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146060
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128421
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182191
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277

I'm good on the monitor, keyboard and mouse, and hard drive but I need to know if there's any alternate options to the parts that are better and more cost effective, especially the graphics card. I need major help on getting the best bang for the buck on that one. What are some other components that you'd recommend? I also read that the case doesn't allow for the more high-end mobos and stuff like that if I ever decide to upgrade. Are there any suggestions on cases?

Also, my budget can't go much higher than around $650.

[Logan Greenwood]

What would be the best way to pop off my spacebar to clean under it? I have a Logitech G15 and don't want to ruin it to clean it. But the spacebar feels funny when I hit it. Any suggestions for getting just that one single key off?

Getting it off shouldn't be a problem. Now, getting it back on is a major pain in the butt. Usually space bars have an additional metal wire thing that has to be slid into a groove on both ends. If you fail to get this metal piece back in correctly, the key with be unstable and wobble when you press it.

[Kari Depp]

I'm looking into building a gaming PC and I need some help with stuff. I'm planning on buying these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146060
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128421
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182191
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277

I'm good on the monitor, keyboard and mouse, and hard drive but I need to know if there's any alternate options to the parts that are better and more cost effective, especially the graphics card. I need major help on getting the best bang for the buck on that one. What are some other components that you'd recommend? I also read that the case doesn't allow for the more high-end mobos and stuff like that if I ever decide to upgrade. Are there any suggestions on cases?

Also, my budget can't go much higher than around $650.

If you want bang for buck, then I'd suggest rethinking your CPU and Mobo choices...AMD tend to give you slightly more for your money.

As for a graphics card, what games do you plan on running?

[Benjamin Holz]

If you want bang for buck, then I'd suggest rethinking your CPU and Mobo choices...AMD tend to give you slightly more for your money.

As for a graphics card, what games do you plan on running?

Bad Company 2 would probably be the most graphically demanding game on my list, and maybe Crysis on lower settings.

[Inol Wakhid]

Bad Company 2 would probably be the most graphically demanding game on my list, and maybe Crysis on lower settings.

Bad Company 2 seems to recommend a minimum of an ATI Radeon 4870 (unless you want it all on low settings), so might I suggest that? However, having stated you plan to buy 2x2GB sticks of RAM, might I suggest a 64-bit OS? Otherwise, the 1GB VRAM on the 4870 will be unused (or 1GB of your standard RAM).

I'll look over your build and see what I can find...

[Steeeph]

Getting it off shouldn't be a problem. Now, getting it back on is a major pain in the butt. Usually space bars have an additional metal wire thing that has to be slid into a groove on both ends. If you fail to get this metal piece back in correctly, the key with be unstable and wobble when you press it.

So kind of like certain laptop keyboards? How would I go about getting this off? Just pull it up or use some type of screw driver?

[herrade]

So kind of like certain laptop keyboards? How would I go about getting this off? Just pull it up or use some type of screw driver?

It should pry off like any other key. Just be cafeful.

[Taylor Tifany]

It should pry off like any other key. Just be cafeful.

Alright pried it off. Was one long bar under it with a couple hooks. Came off super easy and went back on the same. Was spongy due to some jelly I had dropped on it thi smorning I didn't see. Got it all clean now.

[brandon frier]

Can anyone recommend me a decent mid-tower case for $50 or under? Preferably from Tiger Direct so I can use the recycle/trade-in thingy and get some money off.
Here's what it should be accommodating:
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182022
Mobo: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=4936681
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127434

I'm currently using some cheap case with a "Powertech"logo on the front....

Ravin

[Emmi Coolahan]

Can anyone recommend me a decent mid-tower case for $50 or under? Preferably from Tiger Direct so I can use the recycle/trade-in thingy and get some money off.
Here's what it should be accommodating:
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182022
Mobo: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=4936681
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127434

I'm currently using some cheap case with a "Powertech"logo on the front....

Ravin

Can't endorse your selection of a power supply. It is made by Solytech (Rosewill just puts their brand on 'em) and is a good candidate to self-destruct at anything approaching full load.

Good motherboard. Good enough GPU for a low-cost system.

Cases: That is a microATX board, so I'll include a microATX-only case as well as ATX cases. TigerDirect has lots of good under-$50 cases. If you have a Fry's in driving distance, shop them, too, and save the shipping cost.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4434994&CatId=3427 MicroATX. Rock-bottom price, but I just built a computer for a friend using one of these cases, and he loves it.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4540656&CatId=1509 ATX/microATX. Good if you want the blue lights look, lots of drive bays.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2541413&CatId=1509 ATX/microATX. Similar to the smaller Elite 341. I've used similar CM cases. They're good value.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5310941&CatId=1509 ATX/microATX. A step up in both style and convenience from the CM boxes.

Power supplies: These forums don't recommend bargain power supplies. We don't want our members to be unsafe or badly disappointed. That said, if you must cut costs to the bone, this one isn't actually bad; just don't count on it for more than 350W:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1389575&CatId=1078 Actually made by hec-Compucase, and OK if you don't actually need more than 350W. (You don't, not with a single 9600 GT). We use a lot of these in our office and haven't been disappointed in them, but they don't exactly see rough duty, either.
But much better, and worth the difference:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3287208&CatId=1078

[Shirley BEltran]

I'm looking into building a gaming PC and I need some help with stuff. I'm planning on buying these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146060
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128421
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182191
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277

I'm good on the monitor, keyboard and mouse, and hard drive but I need to know if there's any alternate options to the parts that are better and more cost effective, especially the graphics card. I need major help on getting the best bang for the buck on that one. What are some other components that you'd recommend? I also read that the case doesn't allow for the more high-end mobos and stuff like that if I ever decide to upgrade. Are there any suggestions on cases?

Also, my budget can't go much higher than around $650.

A wild guess, but you seem to be interested in this deal?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.328587

Not a fan of Rosewill PSUs though. It's not bad considering the discount though.

How much do you want to spend on a video card?

Can anyone recommend me a decent mid-tower case for $50 or under? Preferably from Tiger Direct so I can use the recycle/trade-in thingy and get some money off.
Here's what it should be accommodating:
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182022
Mobo: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=4936681
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127434

I'm currently using some cheap case with a "Powertech"logo on the front....

Ravin

The suggested Corsair PSU is great. Here's another alternative PSU:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4435016&CatId=1079


As for cases, if you can shop at newegg, this will fit the bill nicely:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129070&cm_re=antec_two_hundred%2d%5f%2d11-129-070%2d%5f%2dProduct