The NPCs are "forgotten, not forgettable". That is, I have no NPCs I hate, because that would imply they have enough personality to hate. I have no NPCs I like, because after 92 hours, they haven't individualized themselves. The only ones I remember much of anything about is that there's some chick in whiterun who wants to be a merchant, the first person on the right in Whiterun is a blacksmith with a well-connected daddy, and Sapphire's had a really bad time of it. And that should tell you everything I remember (disclaimer, I haven't played since November)
My character is 100% bland. At no point has the game offered me a chance to start defining his nature. I *COULD* invent something, but if I was going that far, I'd just write out my own adventures/world. I prefer the more "organic" style of developing a character that I found in DA:O. I make choices. Simple, meaningless choices on how my character might respond. When it comes time for an overt decision, I already know what he might do. Because he's NATURALLY developed into that. (Of course, I would point out that there's nothing fundamanetally wrong with writing a backstory and playing out a character subsequently. It's only inferior within the context of my personal enjoyment.) Skyrim is simply lacks the basic character interactions necessary to grow a role.
The leveling system is uninspiring. I had 11 or 12 unused perks when I stopped playing. I don't CARE how my character develops. H/M/S decision is based entirely on "how can I make my numbers look pretty?", without regard to how it might affect the character. Because they've reached a point where 10 points in any of them is trivial. The perks are "beyond awful". Fallout 3 had great perks. Skyrim does not. This makes it even harder to care about my character, because there's nothing I want to add to him.
The quests are a mixed bag. Factions... The College seems like it might be an interesting quest line... except I'm only 2 missions in. The Companions... not interesting me, just like every other primary melee guild. The only ones Bethesda has ever done a decent job with are MW's Legion and KotN*, and the Companions may well be on their way to having one that makes me long for the Fighters' Guild (shudder). The "evil" guilds are, once again, appearing to be the best of the bunch. Notice I haven't actually done more than 2-3 quests for any of them. Side-quests are generally a regression. Daedric Quests? LEARN FROM THESE! Best quests in the game, and MUCH better than any Daedric quests to date. Misc quests... sounds a lot cooler than it actually is.
Shouts... not terribly useful overall, and the global cooldown is decidedly limiting. A 2 tier cooldown might've been better: you can't use individual shouts over and over, but it may be possible to use Ice Form and immediately switch to Whirlwind Sprint... but then you're SOL if you need to use FUS RO DAH in the next few seconds. I also think this list pretty much summarizes what I use, and in what order.
Overall, the game just lacks "soul". Oblivion felt like they really believed in the game. Fallout 3 feels like Bethesda spent extra hours at night to make it just a tiny bit better. Morrowind feels like another labor of love. Skyrim feels like many of the features were checklists, and I just feel as though the developers didn't love Skyrim. Liked it, perhaps, but not loved.
Here's hoping the modders are out in force with some originality and love, because this game *needs* it to get me interested again.