..::THE COMMUNITY TECH THREAD No. 111::.

Post » Sun May 13, 2012 5:58 pm

I got the game's audio to record, but I can't record my voice at the same time.

Also, I can't seem to publish the movie to my desktop. I'm getting the same problem I mentioned a few posts back.
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Charles Weber
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 12:10 pm

I got the game's audio to record, but I can't record my voice at the same time.

If you can either set up your microphone to play back out through your speakers or use software to play back instantly, then you can do it, otherwise your sound card needs mixer support, to mix the two sound sources together.

Alternatively you can add the audio post-production.

Also, I can't seem to publish the movie to my desktop. I'm getting the same problem I mentioned a few posts back.
What problem is that? Do you have the latest version of it from Windows Live Essentials?
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D IV
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 11:31 am

After weeks of research and hours of video, I think I am about ready to order. I wanted to let you guys check my list for compatibility and opinions on what I may or may not need to change delete or add.

I will be getting a 120hz 1080p LED-LCD TV w/ 5ms. I assume that it will connect via HDMI from the GTX 580. Is that all that is needed or will I have to connect it to my motherboard via USB as well?

I have keyboard, mouse and 5.1 speakers. I will also be using a wireless Xbox controller.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0, Black Interior and Four Fans-1x ...

ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 ...

ASUS ENGTX580 DCII/2DIS/1536MD5 GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video ...

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9Q-16GBRL

LITE-ON Black 12X Blu-ray Burner with Blu Ray 3D Feature SATA IHBS112-04 - OEM

Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

HITACHI HDS721050CLA362 (0F10381) 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 V2 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply

CORSAIR H100 (CWCH100) Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
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celebrity
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 6:23 pm

I will be getting a 120hz 1080p LED-LCD TV. I assume that it will connect via HDMI from the GTX 580. Is that all that is needed or will I have to connect it to my motherboard via USB as well?
Nope, no need for USB. Just need to connect your TV to your card's HDMI port. I was gonna mention something about mini-HDMI but I think the card you listed has an HDMI port.
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Roisan Sweeney
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 5:41 pm

Nope, no need for USB. Just need to connect your TV to your card's HDMI port. I was gonna mention something about mini-HDMI but I think the card you listed has an HDMI port.
Thank You for responding. I am very appreciative of any advice.
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Jerry Cox
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 8:10 am

After weeks of research and hours of video, I think I am about ready to order. I wanted to let you guys check my list for compatibility and opinions on what I may or may not need to change delete or add.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
-list hoes here.-

I personally see no reason for a sound card on the system as you are getting a motherboard that supports 5.1 audio. All the sound card is going to do is reduce cpu strain by a very limited amount. That is just me though.
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kitten maciver
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 8:22 pm

I personally see no reason for a sound card on the system as you are getting a motherboard that supports 5.1 audio. All the sound card is going to do is reduce cpu strain by a very limited amount. That is just me though.
Excellent! 5.1 is all I am interested in. Thank you! That will save me $200!

Not that I really understand what it is (yet), but will I be able to "overclock" with this setup? I have seen it mentioned in the vids. I need to research that more.
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Laura Richards
 
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Post » Mon May 14, 2012 12:06 am

Excellent! 5.1 is all I am interested in. Thank you! That will save me $200!

Not that I really understand what it is (yet), but will I be able to "overclock" with this setup? I have seen it mentioned in the vids. I need to research that more.
Very much so, yes.

Short description on overclocking: a processor runs at a factory set "clock" speed (yours is 3.4GHz). Overclocking is basically raising the clock speed to squeeze some more performance out of the CPU. Note that there's a bit more to it and overclocking isn't limited to CPUs. But that's a short explanation of what it is.
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[Bounty][Ben]
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 10:24 am

Very much so, yes.

Short description on overclocking: a processor runs at a factory set "clock" speed (yours is 3.4GHz). Overclocking is basically raising the clock speed to squeeze some more performance out of the CPU. Note that there's a bit more to it and overclocking isn't limited to CPUs. But that's a short explanation of what it is.
This will be great with that MONSTER of a CPU cooler you are looking at too. I wanna see a prime95 test with that. you could bet money that it would not hit cpu temps more than 60 degrees.
Also, note for the build: when setting up, use the stock cooler first so that in case of the fact that the cpu dies within an hour, it is still in warranty and can be replaced. You can put on the H100 afterwards.
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Leilene Nessel
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 3:55 pm

Very much so, yes.

Short description on overclocking: a processor runs at a factory set "clock" speed (yours is 3.4GHz). Overclocking is basically raising the clock speed to squeeze some more performance out of the CPU. Note that there's a bit more to it and overclocking isn't limited to CPUs. But that's a short explanation of what it is.
This will be great with that MONSTER of a CPU cooler you are looking at too. I wanna see a prime95 test with that. you could bet money that it would not hit cpu temps more than 60 degrees.
Also, note for the build: when setting up, use the stock cooler first so that in case of the fact that the cpu dies within an hour, it is still in warranty and can be replaced. You can put on the H100 afterwards.
Will do, with the stock cooler.

Very encouraging words guys, Thanks. I wasn't sure about the PSU being heavy enough if I chose to forego this unknown world of overclocking. I can assure you It will be thoroughly researched before any measures are executed.

I was hoping to set this up as a Home Theater as well w/ Internet, Games, Blue-Ray and what have you. The eye level would be roughly at the bottom of the TV at a distance of 8', from the face of the TV to my nose.

I have a small room for this. I can't set up at a desk for too long (age and physical limitations) and I like to play in 12-15 hr sessions with a gamepad. I currently play Xbox w/ a 42" Plasma TV, CATV receiver, DVD player and I have my Laptop on the coffee table in front of me. The new rig was to take the place of all of that. This is the decor I will have to work with.

I guess I could set up a monitor on the coffee table. I would entertain the idea of three monitors, but I am just not sure about the screen being broken up like that, from the wide black edges of the monitors.

The TV I have selected is a 47" LED-LCD 1080p 120hz 5ms. I am trying to research this whole "ghosting" thing to decide what I really want to invest in and if it really will be THAT big of an issue. So i need to weigh the lesser of two evils with some ghosting vs broken image between three monitors.

Your expert knowledge and input is welcome.
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JD FROM HELL
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 12:23 pm

So at some during the drunken hammering on my keyboard I call ′typing′I have done something horrible. My keyboard now makes Spanish characters ???¨¨¨¨¨::;;^^^****^^*?¨?¨?¨¨)=???*^---???′′′′ among other problems when I type. The letters and numbers seem fine, teh symbols are borked though.

Anyone hlep me out_
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Saul C
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 6:27 pm

:banana: I'm getting another 8 GB RAM, and a new USB hub! I need the RAM for modding, and I somehow managed to destroy four of my USB ports shortly after I bought the new PC. The RAM will bring me up to 12 GB. Good enough.

Don't know why this makes me so happy.

Anyway: why does my RAM usage slowly creep up over time? I notice that after a few hours of using the PC, the usage has risen by 10% or so. I have to log off and on in order to flush whatever it is that's creeping into the RAM. It happens faster if I've been using a lot of RAM-intensive programs. Is there a way to stop or slow this?
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Riky Carrasco
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 1:46 pm

Anyway: why does my RAM usage slowly creep up over time? I notice that after a few hours of using the PC, the usage has risen by 10% or so. I have to log off and on in order to flush whatever it is that's creeping into the RAM. It happens faster if I've been using a lot of RAM-intensive programs. Is there a way to stop or slow this?
Your OS is "storing" stuff in the RAM for faster access. Rather than unloading it to free up RAM space temporarily, only to have you re-open the file again (causing it to have to once again be transferred from your HDD into memory -- which is "slow") it keeps it in memory until something else demands the memory space. This is a good thing, as it speeds up various aspects of your computer use, and the penalty for having to flush out something from memory "storage" to make room for something else that needs to be ran now is very small given the speed of memory compared to the speed of hard drives.

So in summary: you don't need to slow/stop it, as it's a good thing and improves the overall desktop experience.
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naomi
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 4:53 pm

Hey all,
I've decided it's time to replace my aging laptop with a desktop able to run Skyrim and FO:3 / NV. Looking through various threads I've come up with some ideas. With the following setup what can I expect for performance? Idealy, I'd like to stay under $1k US with monitor and OS.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4diR
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Ebony Lawson
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 3:50 pm

Your OS is "storing" stuff in the RAM for faster access.

I didn't think it would use up so much memory. 10% is 400 MB. If I leave it long enough, it even jumps to 20%. That's 800 MB of RAM... Oh well. Problem's solved now. :) Well, soon. My PC guy is getting it all tomorrow and coming to install it.
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Captian Caveman
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 5:17 pm

i wanna know about nvidas phsyx
i know my new card im getting can support it but im curious
is it worth it?
what exactly does it do?
what new games are compatible
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Amber Ably
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 8:57 pm

i wanna know about nvidas phsyx
i know my new card im getting can support it but im curious
is it worth it?
what exactly does it do?
what new games are compatible
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0xRJt8rcmY
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Toby Green
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 5:07 pm

So, the last few weeks I haven't been receiving emails from Amazon. No order updates, shipping confirmation, etc. No other sites, just Amazon. After a while of searching Hotmail's options, I found the setting "Rules for sorting new messages." I've never used this option before, but it had two rules in place:

>Delete all emails from @amazon.com
>Forward all emails from @amazon.com to shipper_usa@yahoo.com

Anyone ever heard of this sort of thing? I'm very careful about which sites I visit and I've scanned my PC with MSE just to be safe. Changed my passwords around. Still worried about a handful of Amazon emails being forwarded to this address for a month though, they were all orders and such.
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Del Arte
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 10:19 am

Been thinking about building a desktop, I'll post the rest of my potential build later, but right now I'm just trying to figure out the case. Basically, to fit on my desk at the University it has to be less than 18 inches tall, preferably closer to 17 or less but I'd still like something that can fit a full ATX motherboard. Any recommendations are welcome. Here are a few I've looked at (and I'm assuming dimensions are listed LxWxH):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119227
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119199&Tpk=elite%20nv
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147160
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144261
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Everardo Montano
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 1:49 pm

I don't get this. (imagine that) This is the monitor I am interested in. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236153

From what I've read, DVI and HDMI use the same signal type and produce the same quality display. HDMI only carries the audio in addition. That being the case...Why would a monitor that has no speakers need to be manufactured with an HDMI connection?
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CArlos BArrera
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 12:56 pm

I don't get this. (imagine that) This is the monitor I am interested in. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236153

From what I've read, DVI and HDMI use the same signal type and produce the same quality display. HDMI only carries the audio in addition. That being the case...Why would a monitor that has no speakers need to be manufactured with an HDMI connection?
For non-DVI connections. Like maybe you want to connect a console (or anything else that connects via HDMI), and then you could switch between your PC and console using the input select.
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Budgie
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 11:16 am

For non-DVI connections. Like maybe you want to connect a console (or anything else that connects via HDMI), and then you could switch between your PC and console using the input select.
Yes, you are right. I had thoughts after that post. Granted it is painful to have those, (thoughts) or any for that matter at my age. But thank you for the reply.
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Causon-Chambers
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 1:10 pm

>Delete all emails from @amazon.com
>Forward all emails from @amazon.com to shipper_usa@yahoo.com

That's alarming. Step up your password security. Tip: don't use a random assortment of letters and numbers. Just use a really long phrase. It's easier to remember, and it's more difficult to "guess"/discover/crack a long password composed of common words than it is to do the same with a short password which is just a collection of numbers and letters. Common password wisdom is myth.
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Trevi
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 9:30 pm

Been thinking about building a desktop, I'll post the rest of my potential build later, but right now I'm just trying to figure out the case. Basically, to fit on my desk at the University it has to be less than 18 inches tall, preferably closer to 17 or less but I'd still like something that can fit a full ATX motherboard. Any recommendations are welcome. Here are a few I've looked at (and I'm assuming dimensions are listed LxWxH):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119227
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119199&Tpk=elite%20nv
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147160
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144261
I would either go with the cooler master(with the window) or the rosewill case, depending on how badass you think your build is.
Cooler master makes great looking and performing cases. Rosewill is the Magpul (or you could compare to kingston or corsair) of the computer industries for having great durability and quality for a low price. If you are not going to be able to see the plastic window, there is no point getting the first one.

The other cooler master has a cone on the inside that directs air from the heatsink out of the computer, which is handy. I would get that for heavy gaming. I would have to say either the cooler masters or the rosewill. I have used a case similar to the non-windowed cooler master and it felt a bit loose fitting. If the thumbscrews were not in the side panels, The side panels would literally fall off.
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Tracy Byworth
 
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Post » Sun May 13, 2012 6:53 pm

So after getting all the parts I needed for my new Computer, and putting it all together. I started to install Windows, it got to a certain percent and then a hard drive error happened.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136795<---- Hard Drive

0x8007045d Error is what it's called. Is it a faulty Hard Drive? Or is something else wrong. All the parts were in the right place, and then this happens.
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Flutterby
 
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